After the Holy Land this was always going to be the special part of our trip learning more about my heritage in the English culture not to mention a visit to the home of our current head of state. I’m also very aware that living in Australia I have an aboriginal heritage (especially growing up in a suburb named “Moorooka”) but there is no doubt England has been the cultural heritage which has shaped my values. This has been the cradle of civilisation as I have known it even although the history at times has been anything but civilised.

It is the story of Kings and Queens and how they gained power and lost it. Overall it is the story of the march from monarchy to democracy – the power of one to the power of many (the people). One of the arguments often heard in support of the monarchy is that it provides very stable government. Well, only in recent history because the wider picture is one of intrigue, insurrection, family feuds, murder, forced marriages, national and civil war. As we have travelled around it has been great to hear the stories which have shaped English history. Previously my knowledge was meagre, coming from primary school, quiz show geniuses and of course reformation history learnt whilst studying theology.

One of the lesser known stories is that of Bishop Tunstall who was Bishop of Durham at the time of the 16th century Reformation. The Bishop of Durham was known as the Prince Bishop because the Kings in London delegated a large part of the responsibility for ruling the north of England to the Bishop as it was just too far away in ancient times. It is said the Bishop of Durham was the second most powerful man in England. When Henry VIII broke away from the Pope, Bishop Tunstall went with him and became Protestant. He continued the same under the Protestant Edward VI but when Mary I (Bloody Mary) brought England back into the Catholic fold he followed suit. Five years later when Elizabeth I asserted the independence of the Church of England Tunstall again went with the flow. You could say he was a man for all seasons however the story has a final twist.

When he was in his 80s (a ripe old age back then) he wrote to Elizabeth I saying that his conscience was with the Catholic Church and he wanted to die Catholic. He was removed from his position and sent to the Tower of London where I’m pleased to say he died of old age.

In the 16th century Kings wielded enormous power and to displease them was to risk losing one’s head. Our world is so different with power now residing with the people. This is not only seen at election time but in the way individuals can lobby their politicians, protest in the streets and now use a variety of social media to affect change in our society. Not only this, we live in a pragmatic world built on science and hard logic.

Monarchy seems like such a strange anachronism in the 21st century but… and this is a big BUT… don’t the people love it! In the winter months tourism wanes and the changing of the guard at

Buckingham Palace only happens every second day, but what an enormous crowd was present the day we went. We got two marching bands arriving from different directions into the Queen Victoria forecourt and then into the palace grounds.

Two regiments of soldiers went through various drills and flags were paraded back and forth across the front of the palace. We saw a number of changing of the guard ceremonies in Europe but nothing like this.

(In Europe the performance looks like it is sponsored by the Department of silly walks whereas in England it is the Department of silly hats!). But really no one comes close to the English when it comes to ceremony. It is a great credit to Elizabeth II that she has kept the monarchy relevant and popular. This last word is crucial because what it means is that the monarchy has become captive to democracy. It is certainly harder to get rid of an unpopular monarch than an unpopular politician but make no mistake if the British Monarchy doesn’t serve the people well it will become a relic of history just as Monarchy has all around the world. Remember that Britain had a civil war where the parliamentarians defeated the royalists and set up a republic for a few short years under Oliver Cromwell. While another civil war seems unlikely another republic is not out of the question should future generations of Royals fail to serve.

The monarchy now has a figurehead role which stays above party politics and seeks to serve the good of all. The remarkable thing is it works. All the British I spoke to love the Queen. It is hard to imagine the United Kingdom without the royal family.

But what about Australia? I have to say I can imagine Australia without the Monarchy. It seems to me strange that our head of state resides in another country and is the product of our colonial past. I think we should value our British roots but assert our independence. I’m not about to do an Oliver Cromwell and join an armed revolution. Our current Queen has served us well and it is appropriate to wait for her passing before the next serious debate takes place. Mind you I do recall an article by Graham Richardson who commented that the crowds turning out for William and Kate’s visit to Australia had put the republican cause back 20 years! In practical terms of course under either system, the decision-making is made by our elected representatives anyway so I can’t see the laconic Australian psyche getting too fussed about it all. However while our head of state is only a symbolic position it seems to me symbols are important in defining who we are as a people.

I have loved learning more about history and standing in the places where the great battles (both verbal and physical) took place that asserted the will of the people over the autocratic rule of the King. This history is my history and I’m very glad to live in a society which has been shaped by it.