The beautiful crystal clear waters and tree covered slopes belie the dark history of this celebrated place. What a difference 99 years make. I feel like an imposter arriving in my air-conditioned tourist coach.

I think of my grandfather arriving by boat but certainly without a welcome mat. For him a hail of bullets, for me a shop with ice cream and drinks. For him passage via the Aegean Sea, for me I arrive from Istanbul. For him an encounter with the enemy Turk, for me only friendly Turks embracing thousands upon thousands of Aussie pilgrims every year.

This is a place of sacrifice; a place where human blood has been spilt – both Aussie & Turk along with that of many other nations. Monuments abound to the bravery of all, and that courage and sacrifice now brings a unity that wants to bring an end to the stupidity of war.

But war will have its way and we are all its accomplices. It may be the high spirits of young men sailing off to the other side of the world on a great adventure; Generals [old men] wanting to leave their mark in the annuls of war history; religions trying to prove their God is more powerful; ethnic groups afraid of genocide, therefore strike them before they strike you; the need for empire to produce the economic benefits people have come to expect; or just old fashioned human qualities like jealousy, vanity, prejudice and pride.

Where can we look for salvation? The ultimate sacrifice which brings unity is the cross. Here blood flowed freely to deal with the deeply flawed human condition.

I echo the words of St Paul. Thanks be to God who gives us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ.